Modelling blog

The reaction to Vogue Italia’s latest ‘black’ issue is sending ripples through the industry, forcing the fashion industry to sit up and listen to the unseemingly concept of using non-white models.

The has caused a phenomenon that the publishers had to rush to reprint an extra 40,000 copies to distribute to the UK and US. A massive amount considering average monthly sales are around the 109,000 mark.

Hoping to influence the next show season to put a stop to the ‘white-out’ that usually dominates the catwalks and magazines.

There are three Vogue Italia cover versions of the edition, one of which features 18 year-old Jourdan Dunn, who was discovered in Primark by a Storm scout.

Renowned photographer Steven Meisel pictures 18 new and established stars - with bust sizes ranging from A to E-cup expected that focusing purely on non-white models would cause some debate, but nobody anticipated the global interest. However, model scouts, agencies, casting directors and designers don’t foresee this phenomenon leading to major changes in the industry. Just look at the ongoing skinny debate, which hasn’t resulted in any changes whatsoever.

The reason for not using black models in the past is that they don’t sell, but from what is quickly becoming the best selling edition of Vogue ever, that clearly isn’t true. Black agencies that have previously had to fight to keep going are now inundated with requests for models.

Naomi Cambell…Iman, wife of David Bowie…how many black supermodels can you name?  Truth is, since the 70’s and 80’s black models seem to be getting a raw deal in today’s fashion industry.  Cambell, one of the most famous faces of the nineties, a regular British Vogue cover girl, is pretty much on her own.

But, over in Italy, something is changing.  The July issue of Italian Vogue has been cleared entirely for black models.  Every single item of clothing, accesories and jewellery will be modelled by black models, as well as all the other faces in the magazine being black too.  The magazine is also full of articles about black women.

The centrepiece of the issue consists of over 100 photographs by the infamous photographer, Steven Meisel.  The portfolio is put together as an expose of the fashion magazine editor for ignoring black beauty, or confining it to certain stereotypes in the ghetto or bling.  Meisel has done so with no corny cliches, but instead has created a classy, elegant mood.  The shoot features Naomi Campbell, Sessilee Lopez and Tyra Banks.  Cambell looks stunning in a black cocktail dress.  Lopez is featured wearing a double-breasted jacket, the most amazing hat with a truly fascinating broach.  And Banks wears only a towel!

The most common reason given for not using black models is that they do not sell clothes.  This simply ust isn’t true.  Liya Kebede was recently booked by Estee Lauder for their campaigns and they have reported that it is selling the same as before.

It has been pointed out that the June issue of Italian Voge features no black models at all, but there are beautiful features on Chinese actresses Maggie Cheung and Lucy Liu.   Italian Vogue Editor Sozzani is certainly trying to break the taboo and bring forward black models into the fashion industry.